Located in Riyadh, Rowley’s offers a family-friendly experience.
Less is more. The phrase could easily be applied to Rowley’s, which focuses on a single speciality done well: steak and fries. The restaurant first opened on Jermyn Street, London, and is in one of the poshest parts of the capital, which boasts Royal Warrant holders – shops that supply goods or services to the Royal Family, no less. The concept has since expanded to the Middle East, from Saudi Arabia to the UAE – so we visited Rowley’s in KAFD, Riyadh, to see how it translates overseas.
Rowley’s first opened its doors in 1976 and quickly earned a reputation for its steaks. The concept revolves around dry-aged, grass-fed cuts and traditional British fare. The original venue exudes old-world charm, with dark wood panelling, dramatic mirrors, framed photographs, and a classic clock adorning the walls.
Rowley’s in Riyadh offers a distinctly different experience. Situated in KAFD, it neighbours several popular establishments, including the FACT award-winning Il Baretto, Kuuru and Zuma. Finding the venue is slightly tricky, especially at night – look out for the red carpet and velvet rope, which gives the impression that you’re about to enter a movie premiere.
Be warned: book in advance, especially on a weekend evening. Upon arrival, a sign informs walk-ins of a 90-minute wait, and larger groups are often turned away. Once inside, choose from indoor and outdoor seating, from cosy banquettes to tables on the terrace.
The atmosphere is dramatically different from London. The venue positions itself as an accessible steakhouse, welcoming all. In London, Rowley’s is synonymous with business lunches, suits, and expense accounts. In Riyadh, it’s family-oriented, with groups of teenagers and birthday parties. Lots of birthday parties. Within one hour, we heard “Happy Birthday” sung three times.
The drinks list is sizzling with soft drinks. Across the space, the dark wood interiors are punctuated by splashes of red – across the paper tablecloths, sofas, and even the beverages themselves. The drinks are almost a spectacle in their own right, with row upon row of Coca-Cola bottles lining the walls. If this were a TV show, it wouldn’t just feel like product placement – it would be a full-on advert.
Menus are placed directly on the tables for diners to tick their way through their choices and come with mazes and illustrations to keep children entertained. The menu features steaks, salads, and fries. Steak options include the Classic Australian Striploin, Signature Australian Ribeye, and a Wagyu Special, with diners able to specify their preferred cooking style. Salads include a Caesar Salad and a Tomato Salad; fries come in four variations, from spicy to truffle; and sauces range from peppercorn to secret sauce.
While the staff – clad in red baseball caps and red aprons – are friendly, the ordering process feels somewhat leisurely. The steaks arrive promptly on white plates emblazoned with the Rowley’s logo in red, each adorned with a small Rowley’s flag – almost declaring that, yes, Rowley’s has landed in Riyadh. Two Australian steaks arrive – one cooked medium and one cooked medium-rare. Both are solid, robust cuts that pair beautifully with the peppercorn sauce. The sauce is creamy and rich, and the truffle fries add a touch of luxe to the meal.
Once you get to the bottom of the plate, quotes look back at you: “You looked at the plates, now look at the dessert menu.” The dessert menu includes an indulgent Chocolate Mousse, a creamy concoction that feels like it’s giving a school-dinner classic an upgrade.
If you’re heading to Rowley’s expecting a taste of London in Riyadh, think again. What you’ll find instead is an experience adapted for its audience – communal, comfortable and child-friendly. Judging by the queues we passed on our way out, the simple, steak-led formula has clearly won over all ages. Less is certainly more.
GO: Visit https://rowleysrestaurants.com for more information.